Hiking in an Ecuadorian cloud forest

A new experience for me recently was to go hiking in a cloud forest, in Maquipacuna Forest Reserve, Ecuador. Located just a couple of hours drive from the capital, Quito, this is a great place to explore the natural beauty of mainland Ecuador. 

On the drive to Maquipacuna from Quito it is possible to visit the 'middle of the world' monument - latitude 00° 00' 00''. You can also stop at Pululahua, an extinct volcano whose crater is now farmed to take advantage of the fertile volcanic soil.

Heavy rainfall meant that we had to negotiate landslides on the way to the cloud forest - there was a 30 minute wait while the road was cleared for the one shown below. 
























Set up by an Ecuadorian couple, Rebeca and Rodrigo, in order to conserve the cloud forest, the non-profit Fundacion Maquipucuna now employs several local people, and the reserve covers an area of 6000 hectares. Large swathes of secondary forest are growing back in reclaimed land around the central area of primary forest. The ecolodge itself sits in the middle of the forest and is surrounded by hummingbirds and other forest wildlife. 

The weather was very different to the previous week we spent in the Galapagos Islands!

Although when we visited it was not the right season to see the famous Spectacled Bears, there was plenty of other wildlife to be seen, especially birds and insects. A variety of hiking trails were available, many of which were clearly marked and did not require a guide. Others were more challenging and a guide was recommended, and guides were also helpful for spotting and identifying wildlife. Local guide Arsenio had an encyclopaedic knowledge of the local birdlife, and took us on an early morning hike when we spotted a toucan, hawks, toucan barbets, and many more. 

We spotted this basilisk on the river bank early one morning.

There was also an in-house entomologist staying at the ecolodge, Nancy Miorelli, who provided guided night walks. There was an incredible variety of insect life in the forest, with just a few examples shown below. 

More heavy rainfall prior to leaving for the return journey to Quito gave us cause for concern, but thanks to our driver Bernardo we made it back safely! 

A visit to the Galapagos Islands

A long-held ambition was recently fulfilled when Lisa and myself visited the Galapagos Islands. As a biologist, it was incredibly exciting to visit the place which had played such a key inspiration for Darwin's theory of evolution by natural selection. For their size, the Galapagos have more endemic species than anywhere else on earth. 

I am fortunate enough to have been to many places to view nature and wildlife, but few as pristine as these islands, with animals so unafraid of humans. Even in the main harbour in Puerto Ayora, on the island of Santa Cruz, the water was so clear and unpolluted there were juvenile sharks swimming between the moored boats and sea turtles popping up for air. 

Each day brought a new treat. On the first day there were the famous giant tortoises, the next day we were diving with sea lions, as seen in this video! 

A particular favourite were the marine iguanas, basking at every available opportunity. 

For bird spotters, there were the famous Darwin finches, blue-footed boobies, and even flamingoes. Frigate birds and pelicans were often to be seen at the local open-air fish market, along with a few inquisitive sea lions. 

The sea lions generally got the first pick of the sun loungers too!

Lava lizards are the most abundant reptiles on the islands.

The underwater wildlife was as spectacular as that on land - there were eagle rays and hammerhead sharks off in the blue, plus, as this video shows, reef sharks and turtles in abundance. 

The diving was challenging, with strong currents and abrupt thermoclines, but it was well worth it! (Thanks to our dive master who borrowed my camera to get this shot of a shark, below). 

The final night at our favourite place for sun-downers and wildlife spotting. This was an unforgettable trip, and the Galapagos Islands certainly lived up to their reputation as a unique wildlife experience!